SoTD: Byredo Oud Immortel

When I purchased Byredo Blanche, I asked the sales rep for this sample of Oud Immortel.

Fragrantica classifies Oud Immortel as a woody chypre. The note I find most prominent is patchouli, followed by a distant tie for limoncello and oud. There is no sweetness here, this is a dry scent.

The patchouli/citrus combination brings to mind a fragrance I already own and that is Mistral Patchouli by Atelier Cologne. I will compare this to Tom Ford Patchouli Absolu as well. Take Patchouli Absolu and tone it down and this is what one would get.

While I like it, I will not be purchasing a full bottle any time soon. I will reconsider this when I finish my bottle of Mistral Patchouli.

Byredo and my childhood memories

Happy Valentine’s day!

I did a brave thing today. I went to Neiman’s on Valentine’s Day. Lots of desperate husbands and boyfriends on the move. Lots of sales reps in full force with atomizers at the ready. They know, sales are going to be made.

Since I was a perfumista on a mission and I have a regular perfume sales rep, I was not distracted from my goal. A bottle of Byredo Blanche. There were some interesting scents. I smelled blotters spritzed with the new limited edition Jo Malone, a couple by Van Cleef & Arpels (both lovely), Perris Bois D’Oud (loved it), and the new Armani. While all were lovely, I resolutely stated, “Thank you. I would like a bottle of the Byredo Blanche.” What is keeping me on my perfume path is the realization that if it takes me 6 months of continuous use to empty a 30 ml bottle of perfume; it would take me roughly 15 years to finish my collection.

I made it to the Byredo counter with a couple of samples in hand. I met the new Byredo expert. She told me the story behind Byredo and the fragrance I wanted, Blanche. I did not know Blanche was created for his girlfriend. Before I purchased Blanche, we sniffed every perfume in the Byredo line. This is when 3 scents triggered memories of my grandmother. M/Mink reminded me of her perfume, I could not remember which one but I could literally smell the perfume she wore for church. I sniffed the Loose Lips candle bell jar and I was standing in her bedroom looking up at her put on lipstick (Chanel if I remember correctly); it smells just like lipstick from the 80s. The final scent was the bell jar for Fleur Fantome, a ringer for her perfumed talcum powder; the kind that came in a big container with a powder puff that had a satin ribbon for a handle.

Scent of the Day

After today’s mall visit, there are three scents. This morning, I chose Citizen Queen. I added a pump of Chanel Misia and two pumps of Perris Bois d’Oud to the potpourri.

Clutch your pearls…

Scent of the day

Today’s scent is Blanche by Byredo. Blanche is feminine and sure of herself. She is romantic but does need to reserved for an evening out or “date night”. Like my favorites Citizen Queen and Iris Poudre, Blanche has an opening blast of aldehydes. What sets Blanche apart is that peony is its star floral. Peony, in whatever perfume it appears, always has a sharp floral scent to me. Done the wrong way, I am not a fan. Done correctly, as in Blanche, with the aldehydes and musk, I cannot get enough. The aldehyde, musk, peony dry down makes the opening bearable. I like rose. I like pepper. I don’t like rose and pepper together.

I would wear Blanche year round. During the winter, this bright floral would be to remind me of warmer days. During the spring, this would be a go to fragrance.

Citizen Queen by Juliette Has a Gun

While searching for iris found Citizen Queen. How would I describe this? Every woman is royalty and Citizen Queen is her coat of arms. Citizen Queen is iris (expensive), soft leather (definitely black and buttery soft kidskin), and rose (what is more royal than a rose?). I wore this and was half expecting Michael to bow before me. He didn’t but should consider it.

First impression: 1996 Inez & Vinoodh by Byredo

Scent of the Day

Again, today I am wearing L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two. I seem to be reaching for this bottle all the time. This is on my best winter scent list.

First Impression

I went to the mall at lunch today. I thought I would do two things, buy the last make up product for my collection and stop by the Byredo counter for a sniff and spritz of 1996.

As I search for an iris fragrance for “12 for 2015”, I realize iris and orris are notes that are difficult to do well. This could be because iris does not smell like flower it is a powdery root smell. To my nose that means, wrong balance of notes and all that is left of iris is the powdery impression; no earthy root. Too much iris and that earthy root may lead to your co-workers asking you to leave.

1996 by Byredo is full bottle worthy but not for 2015. It is not the iris for which I am searching. Love how the iris presents in this fragrance and I usually cannot say “No” to any resin. The combination is glorious. But I am not looking for an amber/iris combination. I have a few resins (amber, benzoin, and myrrh) in my collection as well as Chergui on the “12 for 2015” list and do not want to add another sweet-ish fragrance this year.

Fortunately, there is a 1996 candle.

Last make up purchase for 2015

As I stated in my resolutions, I purchased the Tom Ford eye quad palette in Cocoa Mirage. This palette works for everyone. It is a neutral brown palette that can be used for both a natural daytime look or a glam special occasion.

12 perfumes for 2015

I have been thinking how I want to add to my fragrance collection for 2015. I am going to limit myself to one bottle a month. What I want is a combination of still wanting a fragrance that features fig, scents that I want but have been waiting for a special occasion to buy and scents with 4 or 5 star ratings in the book I recently read, _Perfumes: The A-Z Guide_ by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez.
My list in no particular order…

Amber Aoud by Roja Parfums: I have a 2 mL sample that I love and want this for my birthday.

Iris Poudre by Frederic Malle: This was a surprise. The aldehydes almost overwhelmed me but once they subsided it was just glorious.

Number One Intense by Parfums de Nicolai: Won me over with its amber and creamy sandalwood dry down.

Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens: Resins, amber, and myrrh and the Guide calls it a “Best oriental”.

Chamade by Guerlain: Listed as a “Best floral” in the Guide. I would also personally give it the sub-heading “classic”. She is an elegant lady. I am going to have to perfect a French roll and cat eye to pull off this one. It should be fun.

Chergui by Serge Lutens: Tobacco, my new love

No. 18 by Chanel: Combines rose and iris, my two favorite notes

Timbuktu by L’Artisan Parfumeur: Listed under “Best Masculines for Women” in the Guide

Either Philosykos by Diptyque or Premier Figuier by L’Artisan Parfumeur: I think the best place to start with fig is with the fragrances/perfumer — Olivia Giacobetti created both — to which all others are compared.

Dzongkha by L’Artisan Parfumeur: A well regarded woody iris receiving 4 stars in the Guide

Divine by Divine: The Guide categorizes it a buttery floral, that sounds interesting

Flowerhead by Byredo: They are not kidding about the florals. It is gorgeous but, care needs to be taken when sprayed.”
My first step is to go to Surrender to Chance and order samples for which I don’t have a sample.

Fig

I am setting the mood for this post by burning a Henri Bendel Fig Signature candle. I love fig. I am surprised I love fig. In June, when I started sampling perfumes I focused on floral and wood scents, there was no consideration for fig because fig is a fruit.

My love for fig started with a candle. Many fragrance lovers enjoy home scents as much as they like personal scent. Fig and I began our romance with Belle Fleur Figue Noir. The first time the air of the room filled with the scent of that candle I knew I was going to have a fig perfume. It is a fig from the end of summer — ripe and juicy with a change in the air. No more hot summer days, the harvest is in full swing for the cool Autumn and cold winter.

I researched fig perfumes on Bois de Jasmin. I ordered samples of fig perfumes from Surrender to Chance. I drove to the mall at lunch to get a sample of Armani Prive Figuier Eden. I was giddy (yes, giddy) when the SA at Nordstrom handed me a sample of Diptyque Philosykos. And, every unisex and feminine fragrance that has even a hint of fig has been marked as “For test” on my Fragrantica profile.

There has been an immediate standout with Byredo Pulp. There have been a couple I think are not going to work. A few, we may have to come back to them at a later time. I’ll be sharing the hits, misses, and maybes over the next month.